Sincerely, Joel C. Swisher

[Continued from previous letter]

Yesterday under the auspices of the Y.M.C.A. we went on an excursion to Mont St. Michel. One of the wonders of Europe as a sample religious and military architecture of different ages and for its history. A round isolated rock with a circumference of 1/5 of a mile, a mile from shore, rising out of the sea, more than 200 ft above the surrounding quicksands. It was a holy place for the Druids until St. Aubert came in 709 and started the building work. The lower part is surrounded by high walls and on the peak of rock is built a large church, the top of the Spire of which is 600 ft. above the sea.

It was the only place that held out against the Norman invasion on the coast and later against the English. It was a favorite place of many French kings including Charlemagne and Louis XI, the latter started the Order of St. Michael here. The lower passages contain dungeons where political prisoners were kept especially during the French Revolution. I was thru some of the dungeons. They still contain the chains and shackles and other favorite instruments of torture. In some dungeons or pits as they may be called the floor is strewn with skeletons and loose bones of the men that have perished there, starved to death or eaten alive by rats. In one I saw a skeleton leaning against the wall of the well and on closer examination I noticed it was fastened to the wall by an iron collar. The unfortunate man was probably put in that position as punishment and left there as punishment or forgotten about and when life, soul, and flesh left his body his skeleton remained standing and has been in that position for one hundred years or perhaps several hundred. I bet the poor thing is somewhat tired from standing in one position so long. Some kind person should take off the collar and let the poor soul lay down and get some rest.

In the reception rooms under the church used in feudal times by travelling knights and their attendants there are gigantic fireplaces 15 ft. long and 7 ft. to the bottom of the mantel. They would take quite a sizable stick. I imagine cutting wood to keep such a stove going! The chimneys are 4 ft.in diameter and 100 ft. high. The church is built on a platform above all this and is one of the purest specimens of its types of architecture in the world.

This Mont St. Michel having served during the Dark and Middle Ages alternatively as a place of religious zeal, a source of learning, and political prison, its use in recent years had been mainly as a place of interest to tourists and the little village which hugs the landward side of the rocks inside of the ramparts has a population of about 250 people whose only means of livelihood is selling souvenirs, food and drinks to tourists.

Today I took a trip to Dinan, a small town about 15 miles from here. It is of interest for its old walls, a stone bridge 130 ft. high and a stone castle built there in 1382 by Queen Anne and where she lived and entertained her royal guests. One of the rooms of the castle is used as a small museum and there is the hand carved bedstead in which the queen slept. Also in a glass case is a lock of Napoleon’s hair, and around the room are pieces of statuary rescued from the Cathedral at Rheims.

I might add that this town of St. Malo besides being an important place during the Norman invasion also contains some walls put here by the Romans, and part of a fortification built by the Saracens after they had been defeated near Tours. Also from this place went out expedition that discovered Canada and later ones for its settlement.

There are some oyster beds and some carved rocks near here that I want to see yet and then I think I will have covered this district as thoroughly as possible in the short time.

I am writing this in the hotel where I am staying. It is located on a cliff about 40 ft. above the beach, and tonight there is a 40 mile wind blowing in from the ocean, making the place shake and driving rain and sleet against windows. It is as black as ink outside, but I know the big waves are rolling in for I can hear them hammering on the sands and rocks of the beach below us.

As to write this much has taken some effort and time I am lazy enough to ask thee to let it serve for you folks, Gatchells, Bradleys, Aunt Kate and Miss Ella, if they come around soon and then be sure to send it to Aunt Mary.

With love,
Joel